Monday, February 11, 2013

[Preview] Chevrolet 2014 Cruze Clean Turbo Diesel


Chevrolet will be rolling out a new diesel variant of its Chevrolet Cruze for the 2014 model year. The Cruze Clean Turbo Diesel will come with a 2.0l turbocharged engine, which delivers 148 hp (110.36 kW) and 258 lb-ft (347 Nm) of torque.

Despite having some decent power on tap, the Cruze Clean Turbo Diesel still delivers 42 mpg (17.85 km/l) on the highway. The Cruze's new engine is also billed as the cleanest diesel engine ever produced by General Motors, with 90 percent less Nitrogen Oxide and particulate emissions than previous generation diesel engines.


By way of comparison, Volkswagen (a company known for its diesel engines) estimates that its TDI engines can achieve about 43 mpg (18.28 km/l) highway, pipping the new Chevy Cruze by only one mile per gallon. Mercedes' diesel E350 BlueTEC sedan, which has a substantially larger and more powerful 3.0l engine, achieves an estimated 32 mpg (13.6 km/l) on the highway.

One key piece of information Chevrolet has yet to mention is the distance per tank. The BMW 335d, which comes with a much larger 265 hp (197.6 kW) engine, is advertised at 580 miles (933.42 kilometers) per tank. While Chevrolet says that the Cruze offers a "best in class range," we'll have to wait and see how this translates in terms of actual numbers.

The new Cruze will also include the MyLink infotainment system, which is based on GM's IntelLink system. Other notable features include a six-speed automatic, 17-inch alloy wheels and all-season tires.



Performance-wise, the new Chevy Cruze's 2.0l turbo-diesel engine is able to hit 0-60 mph in 8.6 seconds, which edges out the Volkswagen Jetta's TDI diesel.

The Chevy Cruze Clean Turbo Diesel will launch with an MSRP of US$25,695, but the company has yet to announce a release date in the United States.

Sunday, February 10, 2013

How To Check Car's Clutch Problem


Learning how to diagnose clutch problems can come in very useful if you love to drive manual transmission vehicles as I do. The clutch mechanism lives between the motor and transmission and transfers the rotating force of the engine into the transmission. If you've ever had a problem with your clutch, you know what a nuisance it can be.  

Here's how to diagnose a few common clutch problems:

1. Slipping

Slipping is what happens when your clutch is worn down to the point where it can't properly do it's job anymore. The surface of the clutch disk is worn and is not applying enough pressure on the flywheel to drive the car. You can tell that your clutch is slipping if you put the car in gear, press on the throttle and the car does not accelerate as it should. The engine will rev, but the car will not perform. Clutch slipping can also be caused by a leaking rear main engine seal that has allowed oil on the clutch friction surface. Either way, it will need to be replaced.


2. Chattering

Chattering is when you feel vibration or irregular feedback from the clutch pedal when engaging or disengaging the clutch. This can be caused by a fault in the clutch itself or because of an issue with your flywheel. Either way, unfortunately, you will need to remove and inspect the clutch. This is minor but can create bigger problems and should be checked out as soon as possible.


3. Clutch pedal stuck on floor 

If your clutch pedal is stuck against the floor of your car and will not come back up on its own, it could be an issue with our slave cylinder, hydraulic leak or broken linkage. This can be very simple and is sometimes as easy as replacing a cable. Needless to say you should not attempt to drive your car in this condition.


4. Difficult to depress pedal

If your clutch pedal is difficult to depress, there are a variety of possible causes. It may be that your clutch cable is seized or bound at some point and needs to be replaced. It is also possible that the manual linkage on the transmission is obstructed or that there is an internal failure in the clutch itself. This can be serious and the car should be taken to a shop as soon as possible.


5. Squeaks squeals or chirps

If you are hearing squeaking or creaking noises when you depress the clutch pedal, this is typically just a dry linkage on the end of the pedal itself or on the transmission. This is a minor issue and your car is typically fine to drive. Get some oil and lube the linkage on your clutch pedal and any other linkages you find at the transmission end and the sound should go away. If you can not do this get your mechanic to trace the sound and lube it for you.


Learning how to diagnose clutch problems is beneficial to all drivers. Knowing whether or not a problem is serious or if your car can be driven can save you an expensive towing bill. And if you're in need of a new clutch, you will want to save all the money you can!

Tuesday, February 5, 2013

2013 Best Newly Released Cars


This year, fuel efficiency is still important, but style is back for the new cars sporting 2013 and 2014 model years. Sportiness is taking center stage once more, and a fierce competition is about to happen between $20,000 and $30,000—so if you can't afford the next $100,000 Viper, fear not. Here are 12 cars we're waiting for over the next year or so.


2013 Hyundai Veloster Turbo
When: Late summer 2012
How Much: TBD
Our Guess: $23,000 


Right now, the Veloster lacks the performance cred to back up its killer looks. But that will change once this 201-hp version hits the streets. The 45 percent boost in horsepower has most folks taking a second look at the Veloster, and hoping this Turbo is a signal that Hyundai is getting as serious about performance as it has been about quality and design over the last few years. 

So far, though, signs remain cloudy—the stonking 1.6-liter motor with dual exhaust notwithstanding. Word is the Veloster Turbo gets the same suspension, which is disappointing. The stock Veloster is fun but stiff-kneed and less refined when compared to better-bred sporty cars like VW's GTI—or the Subaru BRZ, which is only somewhat costlier than what we're expecting to see from the Veloster Turbo. Also, ask Mini engineers about controlling torque steer in a 200-hp car with a short wheelbase. That, too, has probably made Hyundai sweat. 

Even if the Veloster Turbo isn't perfection out of the gate, we hope it's a sign of better-performing Hyundais (and Kias) to come.


2013 Dodge Dart R/T
When: October 2012
How Much: $23,290 


Most of the new front-wheel-drive Dart models go on sale this summer. But the fastest of the breed, the R/T, holds off for a fall launch. 

Like its less muscular brethren, the R/T rides on a Fiat chassis borrowed from the Alfa Romeo Giulietta, with a fully independent suspension. We expect that suspension to be a little lower and stiffer in the R/T. The car will get the most horsepower of the lot, with a 184-hp 2.4-liter four under the hood. 

At this point it's unclear if the R/T will come with only a six-speed manual or with a dual-clutch automatic as well. We do know that the R/T, like the Sonic RS, is going to face stiff competition from slightly pricier models, including the Ford Focus ST, the expected Fiesta ST, and the Scion FR-S and Subaru BRZ. Even if these sporty cars are bunched around $25,000, slightly above the Dart R/T, their performance chops could put a pinch on sales of the Dodge.


2013 SRT Viper
When: December 2012
How Much: TBD
Our Guess: $100,000 


With a 640-hp V-10 and a body made of magnesium, aluminum, and carbon fiber, we're expecting greatness from Chrysler's supercar. And at 100 grand, it'd better be great—there's already a Corvette ZR1 in this price range that can eat Ferraris, and the C7 will only up the ante. Plus there's a certain new Mustang that's far cheaper and should be mighty impressive too. And even if the Viper is faster than the Ford or Chevy in a straight line, it must improve its handling over the outgoing model. While SRT folks are claiming a scorching 0-to-60 time of 3.5 seconds and a 206-mph top speed for the new car, the last Viper was time-warp-fast too—and also saddled with unpredictable handling and frequent maintenance headaches. 

Haunted by those ghosts of Vipers past, Chrysler engineers started over. They lowered the car's weight by about 140 pounds and made its chassis 50 percent stiffer. (That alone tells you how far Chrysler had to go to make a Viper that's world class.) The Tremec-supplied six-speed manual (no automatic, at least not yet) is said to have far lower clutch effort, while bringing tighter ratios and more precise feel. The suspension is entirely new, again with the aim of more predictable handling. And there's a multi-setting stability-control system with a full-off mode for the track. That could be great, but only if the car doesn't actually need the electronic assist to handle like a supercar. 

That will be key. This Viper is designed to challenge cars that can reach nine tenths of their potential without technological guardrails. The SRT needs to get in that ballpark to be a real winner.


2013 Ram 1500
When: Late 2012
How Much: Starting at around $22,000 


There is an upside to the game of catch-up Chrysler is playing in so many segments: It gives the company an opportunity to try bold remakes that leap-frog the current benchmarks. We think the automaker chose wisely by doing this to its flagship Dodge pickup. 

The Ram was due for a facelift, but rather than giving it a superficial makeover, Chrysler went for so many smart updates that Ford and GM will be chasing for their own answers. Start with aerodynamics, where Chrysler has altered the front wheel openings and given the truck's grille active shutters said to reduce drag by 3 to 5 percent. It added an eight-speed automatic transmission too, tied in electric power steering, and brought in start/stop technology to save gas in traffic. 

All of these changes are included with any of the available engines, although the Ram's V-8s—the aging 4.8-liter and the 5.7-liter Hemi—are less noteworthy than the 3.6-liter V-6 that'll punch out 305 hp and 269 lb-ft of torque. Ford's EcoBoost V-6 is still more powerful, pumping out 365 hp and 420 lb-ft in the F-150. But the Pentastar engine, used already in the Jeep Wrangler and Grand Cherokee and now available in the Ram, could be the more fuel-efficient choice, especially when combined with all the other tech Chrysler has brought to bear. And because most of the Ram's torque is available nearly from idle, at just 1800 rpm, load-haulers won't miss the V-8 unless they tow serious weight.


2013 Chevy Sonic RS
When: Late 2012
How Much: TBD
Our Guess: No higher than $22,000 (any higher and the Sonic RS would bump up against more serious sports cars like the Subaru BRZ and probably the Ford Fiesta ST, which is still to come but should cost around $22,000) 


The RS is a sportier Sonic with an affordable sticker. Yeah, we wish Chevy would cram its 2.0-liter Ecotec under the hood of the Sonic, but barring that, we'll get the Sonic RS with a 1.4-liter turbocharged four borrowed from the Chevy Cruze and good for 138 hp. 

Still, this car gets more than just a mild exterior makeover. The six-speed manual has closer ratios and the suspension has been stiffened. The stock Sonic is already one of the tautest-handling cars in the "B" segment. Adding 17-inch rubber and a slightly lower suspension is going to make the RS a rip to drive. 

There are also new rocker moldings and a new rear spoiler, but more important for the driver, the car gets sportier, firmer front buckets. The RS will be the only Sonic to get four-wheel discs as well as four-channel ABS with electronic brake-force distribution.


2013 Subaru WRX
When: Early 2013
How Much: TBD
Our Guess: $27,000 to $28,000 


Recently the blogosphere has been alive with chatter that the next-gen Subaru WRX will get the FA motor developed for the Subaru BRZ, and this is one instance when there's logic behind the rumor. The FA engine can sit a lot lower in the car because it's more compact. A lower engine has many advantages, chief among them the ability to shove the mass farther rearward in the car for better balance. Better still, Subaru engineered the FA for higher compression from the start, so it should tolerate the amount of forced induction required to take it from 200 hp in the BRZ to the expected benchmark of 265 hp. And let's just say here that we'd bet Subaru designed its latest Impreza chassis with the WRX (not to mention the STi) in mind, and we'd bet the newest WRX will be lighter and more nimble as a result. A bonus: Fuel economy should jump a good 15 percent.


2014 Jaguar F-Type Roadster
When: Summer 2013
How Much: $50,000 to $60,000 


Jaguar's C-X16 concept from 2011 makes its production debut as the new F-Type with a supercharged 3.0-liter V-6 that should make 380 hp. Expect at least one turbocharged 2.0-liter four-cylinder derived from the Range Rover Evoque, but that powerplant probably won't be sold in the U.S. Both engines will be mated to eight-speed automatics with start–stop technology. 

An aluminum body will keep weight down but price up. Expect this Jag to compete with the Porsche Boxster as well as with the Audi TT-RS. The platform may also underpin a forthcoming XF sedan replacement.


2014 Audi A3
When: Mid-2013
How Much: $30,000 and up 


The forthcoming A3 will be based on the VW Golf. It would be nice if the U.S. got the hatch, but that's unlikely. We probably will get a diesel A3, though, and the four-door sedan will come in a hotter S3 version that's also a possibility for North America, though an über-powerful RS3 is highly unlikely. 

Hopefully the chassis that underpins the new Audi will be more modular than previous versions. That would allow integration of hybrid tech and front-drive or AWD setups that could shave weight on various Audis and Volkswagens, helping engineers to increase fuel economy while downsizing displacement.


Chevy Corvette C7
When: Fall 2013
How Much: $50,000 and up 


We know more about the next Vette than we did just a few months ago. Gone are thoughts of a split rear window, a turbocharged V-6, or a midengine design. It now appears that the C7 will debut at this coming winter's North American auto show in Detroit with a 5.5-liter V-8 that still uses pushrods. However, thanks to direct injection and higher compression, it's reasonable to expect the new Corvette to put out 440 hp, so it could match or best the outgoing 6.0-liter. 

The car will be visually arresting for certain. Inspiration will come at least in part from the present Camaro. One sure bet—GM will finally, praise heaven, give its $50,000 Ferrari slayer an interior that's gorgeous, and with seats that hold the driver comfortably on track day.


2014 Jeep Liberty
When: Mid-2013
How Much: TBD
Our Guess: $22,000 to $24,000 


Jeep has a real conundrum on its hands. Diehard off-roading loyalists want every Jeep to be capable of conquering mule paths and mud bogs. But the RAV4, CR-V, and Santa Fe buyers that Jeep would like to entice don't care about rock-crawling prowess. They care about modern amenities such as hitting 70 mph highway speeds with low noise and vibration and little harshness; carlike handling; and reliability. All-wheel drive is fine if it gets you out of the driveway on a snowy morning, but that's as much Trail Rating as they need. 

We think that means Chrysler is going to push back against those sensitive Jeep fans, hard. That translates to a Liberty that is a Jeep in name but carries the same chassis that undergirds the new Dodge Dart. Expect a fully independent suspension and 4WD but no low range, even if hill-descent control is an option. There's also rumor of an all-new V-6 (the outgoing 3.7-liter V-6 was anemic, unrefined, and thirsty), and a ZF-sourced nine-speed automatic. That would mean a whopping five more forward gears than the outdated four-speed auto in the old Liberty (pictured above). The base Liberty could have the same 1.4-liter turbo deployed in the new Dart, and, though it is sacrilege to some Jeep fans, front-wheel drive.


2014 Porsche Macan
When: Mid-2013
How Much: Low $40,000s 


Porsche loyalists, look away. You might cry foul over this latest VW Group tie-up with Porsche, but Porsche can't hear you over the ka-ching of all those dollars, euros, yen, and yuan. 

We actually have high hopes for the Audi Q5–based Macan. The reason: The Q5 could be much more capable than it is, but while we don't foresee Audi bringing us an R-edition Q5, we can believe Porsche would go there. 

At first, we expect Porsche to go for improved handling, the way it built the Cayenne to be a more capable high-speed machine than the VW Touareg. AWD will be a given, as will two Audi-derived engines, the 237-hp 2.0-liter turbo four and the 288-hp V-6. Rumors suggest that a manual gearbox could be possible, but we're betting on a seven-speed auto, though there's still hope it could come in a dual-clutch arrangement.


2014 Mercedes-Benz CLA
When: Late 2013
How Much: TBD
Our Guess: As high as $45,000 for the AMG, mid-$30,000 range for later CLAs 


Mercedes has been toying with bringing Americans a compact Benz since Harry Truman was in the White House. Okay, not quite, but it seems that way. Think of how much money Mercedes hasn't made while BMW brought the 1 Series, and then several hundred thousand Minis, to the U.S. 

Now Mercedes is finally pulling the trigger. What the CLA promises, Mercedes says, is something slicker than we've seen on American shores, and the first A-Class to grace the New World will arrive as an AMG with a muscular 300-hp turbocharged four-cylinder fed to all-wheel drive. It's even possible we'll see a double-clutch, seven-speed automatic. 

Only the sedan version of the smallest Benz will come to America, probably because the hatch versions of the 1 Series and the Audi A3 haven't sold well here. After the CLA AMG debuts, though, we will see more fuel-efficient CLAs with smaller engines, possibly a diesel, and front-wheel drive.

Tips in Buying Used Cars


Buying a used car can save you a boatload of cash and be a great hassle-free investment. If you don't know what to look for however, you may end up with somebody else's problem that will cost you a ton of money in the long run. Potentially even more than buying new. There is a simple method to buying a used car that will ensure you get a great vehicle

If you choose to buy from a dealer, check up on their reputation first. There are many good used car dealers out there and many bad ones. Ask around, and get a recommendation from somebody you trust. When you go in, name drop and make sure they know that so-and-so sent you there and insisted that they're the best, most honest etc. If the dealer knows that you were a referral they will be more likely to treat you well and continue getting referrals.


Whether you buy privately or from a dealer, always have the car inspected by a mechanic you trust. Don't accept "we've run it through our shop" or anything else the salesman will tell you as a final word on the mechanical condition of the car. I can't stress this enough. Your mechanic will usually charge you a fee for looking over the car and has nothing to gain either way. This is how you can ensure you are getting an honest opinion. Your mechanic knows exactly what to look for when purchasing a used car. The fees for having vehicles inspected can start to add up so I've put together some things to check before you even take a car to a mechanic to ensure that it's worth the time and money.

Every used car has a past and it's your job to find it out. Don't assume that because the car is being sold by a dealer or that it has only had one owner that there's nothing hidden. You need the whole story. 

Here's my opinion on what to look for when buying a used car. This simple check will take less than 10 minutes and is well worth the time.


1. Maintenance history

If the owner has no evidence that the car has been maintained, walk away. If the car is still fairly new and has some factory warranty remaining, you may be able to get the service history from the dealer. You need to know that the car has had it's regular oil changes and been serviced at the proper intervals. The more receipts the better. Tires, any aftermarket accessories, stereo etc. Meticulous people keep receipts and they are the best types to buy a used car from.


2. Accident history

There are a few different websites that will tell you the accident history of any car for a small fee. All they need is the VIN (vehicle identification number) to do this. Always check this. The car may have accident history that the current owner doesn't even know about. This will also tell you if the car has been imported from another country or province.


3. Check the paint

Do a full walk around of the car and check that the paint color and condition is consistent. If there's one fender or door that is different from the rest by even a couple of shades, it has likely been repainted. It may just have been a minor ding but if you notice and ask, most people will fess up and tell you what happened.


4. Tires

Replacing tires can be very expensive. Check the tires to make sure that they're the same brand and size, are evenly worn, and not worn out. Even somebody who isn't car savvy at all can spot an obvious defect in a tire.


5. Leaks

Cars shouldn't leak fluid even if the seller assures you it's minor. Look under the front and rear of the car and make sure there's no wetness anywhere. If there is, I would avoid it. If you really still want the car and there's some fluid leaking then it's even more important to have it checked by a mechanic.


6. Oil level and condition

Check the oil. It should be gold to dark brown and full. Oil will appear black if it's been in the engine for some time and this may not be a bad thing. If the oil is completely black, go to step 1 and make sure the last oil change was documented and it was within the prescribed time.


7. Interior condition

As a general rule, people treat the interior of their car the same way they treat it mechanically. If the interior is ratty, dirty, or otherwise not well kept, I would stay clear. Not only has the owner likely not cared very well for the rest of the car, but that also says something for how serious they are about the sale. If somebody is serious about selling a car, I would expect them to put the effort into cleaning it properly.


These things are key when learning what to look for when buying a used car. If they all check out, then the car is a good candidate to take to your mechanic. If something doesn't seem right, I would steer clear. But if you really like the car and want to have it inspected anyways, make sure to talk to your mechanic about any specific concerns. And remember, there's no substitute for a good mechanic!